Cycling Around Bormio
На русском. 🇷🇺
4 days of cycling through the mountain passes of the Lombard Alps: Eira, Gavia, Stelvio, Lago di Cancano
Bormio is a small Italian town in an alpine valley in Lombardy. In winter, it’s a popular ski resort, while in summer, it’s a hub for hiking and cycling.
Jozef and Daniil planned several routes through the nearby mountain passes. This time, we decided to use Bormio as our base and ride into the mountains light. Since we only had a few vacation days left, we planned a 4-day trip, including the weekend.
Unfortunately, there were no viable public transport options from Berlin. Renting a car and traveling together seemed the most convenient choice. We booked a 9-seater vehicle, planning space for 5 people and 5 bikes.
On Thursday morning, Daniil and I went to the airport to pick up the car (picking it up at the airport was noticeably cheaper than in the city). We encountered an unpleasant surprise: while finalizing the paperwork, I casually mentioned that we were heading to Italy. The rental employee immediately informed us that taking this car to Italy was prohibited, and we should have notified them a week in advance if we were crossing borders.
As it turned out, the rental company had safety policies prohibiting certain car brands (Audi, BMW, Mercedes, VW, Land Rover, Jaguar) from being driven to specific countries (Italy, Poland, Hungary, etc.). They were about to give us a Mercedes, but there were no other available cars of the needed size. We thought the trip was doomed, but the rental manager offered a 5-seater Citroën with a relatively spacious trunk. It was better than nothing, so we agreed and drove to the office to try packing into the car.
Initially, there were five of us: Jozef, Daniil, Evgeny, Andrey, and me. In very cramped conditions, we had to disassemble the bikes (remove the wheels, turn the handlebars), but even then, we could only fit four bikes. Andrey’s frame was slightly too large for the trunk’s opening, and with heavy hearts, we had to leave him behind.
Alternatively, we considered renting a bike on-site, but even then, it was doubtful we’d all fit in the car.
In the end, around 3 p.m., we set off from the office and headed toward Munich. Daniil and I were listed as drivers, taking turns behind the wheel.
Without further incidents, we reached Bormio around 2 a.m. The key to our apartment was waiting in a lockbox. In the middle of the night, we carried the disassembled bikes into the house and went to sleep.
The next day, we didn’t have big plans; we intended to do a warm-up ride to Passo Eira.
Jozef and I woke up earlier than the others and went to the store for groceries. Our apartment was on a hill, which provided a panoramic view of the town and an extra workout for our legs.
By noon, we had breakfast, assembled the bikes, and set off to ride. The weather was great - hot at lower elevations, but the wind felt noticeably cooler higher up.
We were entertained by beautiful views, waterfalls, and cows with bells.
According to the original plan, the next morning we intended to tackle the main goal of our trip - Stelvio Pass.
Unfortunately, the weather forecast was unfavorable, predicting snow and cold at the summit. We decided to postpone Stelvio until Saturday and instead head to the more manageable Gavia Pass.
Despite the forecast, the morning sky looked decent, but we dressed warmly just in case (a wise choice).
It was warm and dry at first, but about halfway up, it started raining. We took shelter until the rain eased, then continued. It grew colder, and Jozef, who was dressed lighter than the rest of us, realized it wouldn’t get warmer and decided to turn back to base. The three of us pressed on.
The temperature dropped as we climbed. We started at around 25°C at the base and reached 0°C with wet snow at the summit. The forecast came true with a delay, and we found ourselves in a snowstorm. Riding became tougher, but we made it to a small restaurant at the top, where we warmed up by the stove and refueled with a delicious local lunch.
The pass was close to the restaurant, so we rode to it and then turned back. It was very wet, with snow turning into slush, but fortunately, there was no ice, and the road grip was safe enough. Daniil and Evgeny got quite cold on the descent, but I was dressed slightly warmer and came down without much discomfort.
It was a challenging but memorable ride. Daniil caught a cold afterward and planned to skip the Stelvio ride the next day.
The next morning, the weather forecast was excellent. It was time to head for the main goal of our trip.
Originally, we planned to ride through Stelvio Pass and return via a 110 km loop with about 3,000 meters of total elevation gain. After the first few days, we decided this was too ambitious and shortened the route.
In the revised plan, we climbed Stelvio from one side, descended 6 km on the other side, and then returned the same way, climbing Stelvio again.
In the morning, Daniil felt well enough to make syrniki (cheese pancakes) and join us (without the extra descent/ascent). Evgeny stayed at home.
It was warm, and we reached the pass easily and enjoyably. Daniil turned back and headed home. Jozef and I descended to a chalet below. The downhill ride was pleasant with the breeze, but the thought of climbing back up loomed large. While Jozef enjoyed a non-alcoholic beer at the bottom, I wandered along a trail on the slope with my camera.
Surprisingly, the climb back up was easier and faster than I expected.
Near the pass runs the border with Switzerland, which we crossed into. Since I usually descend slower than the others, we decided to split up there. Jozef quickly rode back home, while I took my time, stopping frequently for photos.
In the evening, we prepared for the upcoming departure and packed our things.
On Sunday, we left Bormio to return to Berlin.
In the morning, we had breakfast and packed our things into the car.
Our final destination was Lake Cancano, near a dam. Daniil stayed behind to pack his bike into the car and was supposed to meet us at the lake.
The place was truly beautiful, with turquoise water on one side and a dizzying drop by the dam on the other. Jozef and I had ridden enough, so we disassembled and loaded our bikes at the lake’s parking lot. Evgeny wanted to ride down with the breeze, so we picked him up on the way down.
Then we drove to Berlin, arriving in the city around 2 a.m. We dropped everyone off at their homes along with their bikes. I stayed to return the car, which needed to be done by 11 a.m. By around 3 a.m., I was home and unloaded the last of the luggage. There seemed no point in delaying the trip to the airport, especially since there were no parking spaces near my place, so I headed out almost immediately to return the car.
While loading and unloading the bikes, we smeared the gray interior roof of the car with dirty chain oil. I tried to clean it with a sponge and soap; the marks remained but were less noticeable.
The airport was about 29 km away, and I needed to stop at a gas station en route. Driving through the city at night was pleasant and easy, but as I approached the gas station near the airport, I relaxed about the speed limit and got flashed by a traffic camera. I might soon have a photo to show for it. 😅
I left the car at the designated airport parking lot and returned home by public transport. Around 6 a.m., I was finally in bed.
It was a short but incredibly action-packed sports trip. I really enjoyed it.